Sunday, February 16, 2014

Dutch Tool Chest




In early November of last year, I had the opportunity to attend a hand tool woodworking class in San Marcos, TX that was taught by Chris Schwarz.  Chris is one of the most visible members of the hand tool community.  He has written many books, most notably “The Anarchist’s Tool Chest” and travels around the country, and world, teaching woodworking classes.

I was able to attend this class with my friend Josh, who has been recently updating his blog at boundariesintime.  It was a great weekend of woodworking and beer consuming and it definitely made me more confident in my ability to work with hand tools.

Unfortunately, again, I don’t have too many pictures of the process. So for now, I will do my best to describe the build…

This chest has 2 compartments, an upper and a lower, which will house my hand tools.  The most used tools will be up top with the lesser used tools below.  I also wanted to put a drawer in the bottom compartment to hold some of the smaller things that are easy to lose. It also has a sloped lid that was historically for shedding water when it rained, but it also serves the purpose of not allowing me to put things on top of it.  It is very easy to fill every flat surface in the shop with tools that I just used or scraps of walnut that “might be useful for something”.  This stops the clutter from getting in the way of the tools.

Keep in mind; all of these steps were completed without the assistance of power tools!  The shop that we were in was the Wortheffort woodworking school.  There were a dozen benches, moxon vises, and plenty of extra tools for those who didn’t have them.



We started by cutting the bottom and sides to size.  There was material provided for the course, and since the chest would be painted, I made mine out of poplar. 


Once the pieces were cut to size and cleaned up, we started laying out for dovetails.  The bottom will be holding a nice amount weight, so the dovetails are critical to support that.


In this case, Chris had asked that when a certain problem arose, to tell him so he could demonstrate fixing it.  My friend and I were a bit further along in our woodworking skills and as such, I was the 2nd one done with the tails.  That also meant that I was the first one with the problem… so the teacher had to come help!


Once the dovetails were complete, we cut the dado for the shelf.  This was cut by hand and without the use of a guide block.  I wanted to challenge myself a little bit, and I am happy to report that I didn't mess up too bad!  You can see both Josh and my chests in the glue up stage.

Only one clamp needed!

The next stage was adding the front and the back.  The back is ship lapped to allow for expansion and contraction while the front is simply screwed on.  I still contest that the hardest part about building this using only hand tools was screwing in all of the screws.  I definitely take my power drill for granted.
This was where we got to during the class, a fully formed chest, but no lid attached and nothing inside.  Over the course of the next few months, in between frantic toy-chest building and Christmas gift making, I was able to chip away at the tool chest.  The first point of business was adding a drawer.  We deviated from the plans a few inches to allow room for a drawer in the bottom compartment.  I have a lot of scrap walnut around, so I used an interesting piece with a lot of sapwood for mine.


It is hung from 2 ‘L’ brackets inside the compartment that ride in grooved on the inside of the drawer sides.




The front is handcut half-blind dovetailed into the sides.


And the front is decorated a little bit with a bead that was made using a straight slot screw in a piece of wood!


With the drawer done, it was time to outfit the inside.  I had a general idea of what would go into the upper compartment, so I laid them out and installed some dividers to keep everything from sliding around.


In that last picture you can also see the chisel storage rail.

The next thing to make was the saw storage.  I have seen saws stored under the lids, and I wanted to maximize the space inside by doing the same.  In theory it seems easy, but in reality, it is a little difficult.


I hand drilled a few holes and then, very carefully, cut the long straight cuts with a coping saw.  They aren’t perfect, but the saws fit in nicely and don’t move around when opening and closing the lid.


I had a friend of mine make some leather straps to hold the lid open, I really like the color that he chose and they work great.  I don’t know if they will stay the same length in the heat of a Houston summer, but they look too good, I will cross that bridge when I come to it.

The chest features a simple yet effective locking mechanism for the front. There is a bracket on the front that allows a narrow strip of wood to pass through.  There are matching relief cuts in the bottom of the chest and in the shelf to capture the slat.  Once the lock is fully pressed down, the front won’t come off.  This was originally done so that workers in a shop would only need to lock the top and both compartments would remain protected.








The last, and most fun, thing to do is to fill it with tools!




From my count, I am able to fit:
7 saws
8 hand planes
15 chisels
4 card scrapers
2 squares
2 drills
1 mallet
And various marking and layout tools (rules, scribes, marking gauges) along with extra blades for most tools.

I think I have room to spare in the lower compartment. I guess I will need to buy more tools.

I really enjoyed making this tool chest.  It was challenging and eye opening at the same time.  I realized I can do a lot of tasks with hand tools that I didn't think I had the skill to do.  It also taught me to slow down and think before making a cut, as some things can’t be rushed. Some more beauty shots:

 Hand cut edge profile on the lid.  This was nerve wracking to do on a finished lid.
The Ship Lapped back panels.




I think the thing I like the most about the chest and hand tools in general, is that it was my grandfather’s tools that really got me started.  I am so happy that they have a home and get used regularly now!


Tuesday, January 28, 2014

Shop Project- Flip Top Tool Cart

Sometimes it seems like Another Day, Another tool!  I had the opportunity to cash in some reward points and buy a Dewalt 735x at a greatly reduced price on Amazon.  I also had the opportunity to sell my previous planer that I had grown out of to a fellow woodworker.  It served me well, but I have higher expectations now.  When I originally bought it, I didn’t know what my hobby would grow into, and now it is time for a change.

The Old


The New
There are many upgrades between the 2 machines, but the most important, to me, are the improved surface finish on the planed boards, finer control over the height adjustment and much improved dust and wood chip extraction.

The Dewalt is a LOT heavier than the previous one. It was no chore at all to set it aside and pull it out when needed on top of my bench.  The Dewalt is nearly 100lbs and a bit awkward to lift above waist height.  I didn’t feel I wanted to throw my back out, so I decided to make a cart for it.  I had carts for some tools in the past, but I felt like the took up too much precious floorspace in the shop… until I saw my friend’s flip top cart. In the space of 1 tool, you can hold 2. I was sold. Now for the build.

The sides are made from 2 pieces of plywood glued together for strength. I wanted the metal rod, that acts as the pivot for the top, to have as much support as possible, and I didn’t feel I would get that with a 3/4 panel and a 3/8 inch deep hole.  All of the plywood that was used in this project was already in the shop.  Most being scraps from various cabinets and some free plywood from a crate at work.







What better to use as clamping weight!



To get the metal rod into the top of the cart, I had to cut a dado into 2 panels and then glue those together, leaving enough of the wood to have adequate strength.  The rod is a 3/4 inch steel rod from Lowes.


 Making sure the rod sits all the way down into the groove.

Once everything was dry, I drilled the holes, and started assembling




I also knew that I would want some nice locking casters on the bottom. I have used the cheaper ones on my tool chest, and I am not impressed with how they locked.  I sprung for the nicer ones, again at lowes.  I am happy with them so far, especially the ease in which they unlock.



The locking mechanism couldn’t be easier, just some gate slide locks.


Here is how the swivel works and looks.




And here are the tools.  The planer and the Oscillating spindle sander are mounted as I don’t think I will ever need to use both in succession on a project.




All in all I am pretty happy with the results.  It took me the 1 day to build, and that is with a break to watch the Broncos win the AFC Championship game.  There are some areas where a bit more thought would have tightened up some joints and made it a bit more stable, and I still want to add a drawer to hold all the things that fall out when a tool is inverted, but it is a functional piece. It flips. It holds my tools. Job done.

Tuesday, January 21, 2014

Art Room Cabinetry- Part IV

I think that finishing is the scariest part of a project. You work and work to get every joint perfectly fit, every surface smooth and then you finish it with too much gusto, not enough patience, or just completely the wrong product, and the piece is ruined.  This is why I lean towards the more expensive, but vastly more pretty, woods, just let the wood do the work of looking good for you.  The inherent color of the walnut on this project just needs a coat of oil and then, depending on the situation, a few layers of finish for protection.  No stains, no dyes, nothing to screw up!

Before I applied the finish, I had to completed the daunting task of sanding and leveling all the different boards and joints on this counter top. I was too worried about a few of the boards that had some large patches of open face grain to use a belt sander.  I thought I was going to put irreversible, perfectly straight (i.e unnatural) scratches into the surface.  They would have been very noticeable.  So I did all the sanding with a 6" Random Orbital sander and took baby steps through the initial grits to remove any sign of the previous.




I went from 60 grit for material removal and initial leveling, and up through 80, 100, 120, 150 a grain raising wipe of water and a final 5-6 passes with 220 to ensure that all the swirl marks and imperfections were out. The result is a silky smooth finish and (hopefully) no blemishes that will take away from the final product. The wood grain absorbs water at different rates and swells at different rates too, so a quick swipe with a damp rag will get the grain standing on end for a perfect sanded surface.

My finishing regimen for this piece will be a super easy coat of wipe-on oil and varnish mix for beauty and then a hefty amount of polyurethane for toughness and durability.

My mixture for the oil varnish mix is 1 part Boiled Linseed Oil, 1 part regular gloss polyurethane and 1.5 parts mineral spirits.  The mineral spirits are to make it easier to apply, I like simple, and wipe-on is as simple as it gets.




I use any old jar to store my finishes.  Pickles!

The best part of walnut is that very first time you wipe on the finish. It makes the hours and hours of sanding totally worth it.

Here is a shot of the raw surface and the with the finish being applied.


I keep the surface wetted and if the wood soaks it up, I keep applying.  Once it looks relatively uniform after letting stand for a few minutes, I wipe up the excess. I then come back in 15 minutes and wipe up what comes back out of the wood.


This is my favorite shot so far.


Look at all that figure...


I am going to let this cure for as long as I can stand, at least a few days, then it will be coat after coat of poly.

Gratuitous macro shot.