Dining Table, Finale

It is finally time to complete the table!

I completed the legs and the top, and now it is time to finish them both.  I wanted to do my best to make the 2 types of oak (red and white) appear to be similar.  There is no better way to do this than to make the finish very dark. 

My friend Josh, over at boundaries in time has done a very nice finish on his dining table that consisted of: Dye, Shellac, Stain, Topcoat. I decided to do the same, but where he thinned out his dye and I will not thin to get a darker color. I went with:

-General Finishes Medium Brown Water Based Dye stain

-Zinnser clear Shellac

-General Finishes Brown Mahogany Wood Stain

-50/25/25 Mineral Spirits + Gloss Polyurethane + Satin Polyurethane (I didn’t have any semi-gloss)

I don’t have any ‘during’ pictures, as I was too mad with how it was turning out. At one point, just after finishing the dye step, I was about to resand the entire top because you could see every brush mark and overlap. but as I added layers, everything evened out and looked better and better.  At the end, it was by far the best finishing job I had done.

Here is the before: 

And here is how it looked after all was said and done.

Assembled!

Dining Table, Part IV

Now that the top is more or less ready for finish, I need to make the legs. Since this is a trestle table, it only needs 2 legs, which is nice because they are 9 inches wide!

The legs are made up of 3 parts: the bottom, the riser and the top. The bottom is what I worked on first, and is the most visible part of the leg. So when picking the boards, I used the best looking boards for the bottoms.

And the tops are rather invisible, so they were relegated to the off color red oak with all the knots that you see in the picture (middle).

I used mortise and tenon joinery for the legs as they need to resist any lateral movement of the table as well as holding up well under the bending that is placed on them in the trestle style table.

I laid out the mortises first, using a knife to make very straight and clear lines

And then I removed the bulk of the material with the drill press

It took a bit of effort, but I cleaned up the mortises by hand to get 2 matching rectangular holes.

Dining Table, Part III

Back onto the dining room table!  As a reminder, we are starting with 2 pallets that I got for free from my work, which appeared to be hardwood.

And the plan is to make a dining room table with a trestle base that has a rustic feel and accentuates the nail holes and knots of the wood.

We started with the most exciting part of the project, planing the boards that will become the top of the table.  We were unsure if they were all the same species or if they were going to be flat enough to not create a horribly warped tabletop.

All in all, there were 3 Red Oak and 2 White Oak boards.  We moved them around, flipped them over and swapped their orientation many, many times to get the best looking boards in the best looking order.

Roubo Finale!

The finished product!  The last two posts detailed the base construction and the top lamination.  In my excitement to get the final assembly done, I took very few photos.  So I cleaned up the shop today and got some beauty shots and I will also try to go over each of the features of the bench.

First, the point of this workbench.  I have really gotten into hand tool woodworking and have had trouble ever since I started with properly holding the boards down. I have my assembly table, but it was built on wheels to be mobile, not very good for hand planing a board, it just moves all over the place. The moment I started hand tool woodworking, I wanted a big, heavy, immovable workbench. Here it is!

Roubo Workbench - II

The top of this workbench needs to be big, bulky, tough and most importantly, heavy.  With the Base complete, It was time to laminate the top sections.  Since this will be a ‘Split-Top’ bench, there will be 2 sections for the top with a gap for a tool holder in the middle. One section I can glue up to full width right away, but the other section gets some special treatment due to the vise that will be inset into it.

The first thing to do is to prepare the lumber to be cut to size.  Since I buy rough cut lumber, the edges are neither clean nor straight, and before I can put the boards through the table saw to cut them to width.  When you have a rough edge, there is a high chance that it will become bound in the table saw and be very dangerous.

So to clean up an edge, I turned to my hand-planes.

I used this method on both the rough cut skinny boards as well as the wider boards that I sized on the band saw.  The edge of the board was still quite rough after  the band saw so there wasn't much difference between the 2.

If I was able to keep them thick enough I would need 12 boards, roughly 4.5” wide and 8 feet long. So when I planed the boards down, I kept as much thickness as possible without trying to make them even or similar.

Roubo Workbench - Part I

There is always a long, and ever-growing, list of projects to get on with in the shop, and sometimes the hardest thing to do is decide what is next.  I have wanted a new workbench for some time now.  While I have been in the process of honing my skills with hand tools, I have discovered that my work holding options are far too limited and quite unstable.  Back before the cabinets, and tool chests and other projects, I bought the Benchcrafted Split-Top Roubo workbench kit.

It comes with a tail vise, a leg vise (front vise) and the hardware needed to install them into a French style woodworking bench.  They also came with a set of large scale drawings.

Once the cabinets were out of the shop, it was time to start!

The first choice that I had to make was the type of wood to make the bench out of.  You want something strong, that will last for generations, but you also want it to be stable, easy to work with and not too expensive.  I narrowed my choices down to 3 materials

Soft Maple- Almost the default material for large benches.  It is very strong as well as being in the middle of the hardness range.  This is good because when making hardwood projects, any dings or dents will happen to the bench and not the workpiece.  It is also a very attractive wood with a closed grain.

Ash- Another good choice, and more cost effective than maple.  It has a strong grain, almost like that of oak, but it has similar properties in strength and hardness to maple.

Southern Yellow Pine- Very cost effective choice, but difficult to find in the grade of lumber that I was looking for.  Any Home Depot or Lowes in Houston have SYP 2 x 12” boards, but they tend to be full of knots or warped beyond recognition. While quite soft, it is very strong, which is why they build houses out of it.

If I had been able to find appropriate SYP, and I tried, I would have used that.  But eventually, I gave up looking for clear boards and went and loaded up on Ash.  About 150 board feet of it!

Workshop Tour

There is a long, and ever-growing, list of projects to start, complete and finish when you start woodworking.  I currently have written 2 blog posts about a dining room table that I haven’t touched in 2 months.  Currently I am working on my new workbench (more on that to come in a blog post later in the week) but I recently completed the 13 foot counter top and took the opportunity to clean the shop.

Very early on, I had a request to give you all a tour of my current set-up… so here we go!

I currently live in the middle of the suburban sprawl that is Northwest Houston.  We rent our house, so the modifications that I make to my set-up have to be superficial at best.  We have a 2 car garage, which has held not 1 vehicle since moving into the house, and it is my shop.

I also currently share the garage with 2 refrigerators (half of our current supply) and ongoing projects.

The main tool that takes up a lot of floor space is the table saw.  It is a 10” Delta contractors saw that I bought off craigslist about 2 years ago.  The guy was selling an entire shop worth of small delta tools, and I bought everything I could afford off of him.  It was a 6” Bench top jointer, a Planer (that I have replaced) and the saw.  I have added an outfeed table to the back with some adjustable feet, and I have an assembly table that can handle outfeed duties as well when working with long or unruly stock.

Underneath the table I hide my minimal dust collection.  I have a Ridgid shop vac connected to a cyclone dust separator.  Neither is really adequate for the amount of dust I produce, but my tools are currently not in a great state for dust collection anyway.  It serves its purpose for the time being, and that is to be adaptable.

On the East wall of the garage I have multiple items:

Stock storage, both solid lumber and sheet goods

Band Saw (due to it being the only 20A Circuit)

And my grandfather’s drill press

Also, a set of cabinets that were originally for my beer room… that have become storage for my air compressor and miter saw

Above the cabinets there is a pegboard to hold some odds and ends, mostly drills, sawblades and straightedges.

The drawers of the cabinets hold some drill bits and safety gear.  There is also extra hardware from projects I have built and torn down and extra when buying in bulk.

On the west wall I have 2 tool boxes that I built that hold the majority of my tools. 1 is for power tools, they used to be out on a shelf, but once I got pneumatic tools, I was worried about dust getting into them.

 My most used: Routers, Jig saw, Nail Guns, and Biscuit Jointer

SANDERS!

Saws, Circular and reciprocating

And the other is for everything else.  I had a small set of tools, and there were tools contributed by my better half, but most of these tools were my grandfathers.  

There is a drawer for everything, for example, 1 drawer solely for hammers. 14 hammers. (What am I going to do… throw them out?)

This wall also has a pegboard, but it only holds clamps.  I also built a rack for my pipe clamps of varying heights.  I was mocked at first for the sheer size of my clamp collection… until they were needed then I looked like a GENIUS.

The Oak hanging cabinet was my original home for hand tools, and it still has some of the stragglers.  I will keep it filled with something, but for now, I don't know what.

Below the pipe clamps is the flip top tool cart with my sander and planer, a router table and a storage bin with sand paper, tool manuals and some other things.

On the north wall I have the 2 fridges, one currently being hiding behind my Dutch tool Chest (LINK)

Also on this wall are my finishing supplies.  Paint, finishes, stains etc.

At this time, the heart and soul of the shop is my assembly table.  It is where I do most of my work.  I clamp pieces to it to work on them… and it mostly holds them.  This is the next area to upgrade.

All said and done, it is a nice shop.  I really enjoy building things, especially when I can do the work effectively with my own two hands and no power tools, and the shop allows me to have a place to do that.  There are some needed upgrades.  A new workbench is the highest and current priority, some organization for the power tool drawers, and better dust collection.  Some things will have to wait until I am no longer renting.